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Thread: New 604 cabs

  1. #11
    Senior Hostboard Member aeyb701's Avatar
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    PS:
    Forgot to say I always like looking in the backgrounds of people's photos to see what other gear they have, and what their workspace is like.
    Jon

  2. #12
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    Originally posted by aeyb701:
    ...I always like looking in the backgrounds of people's photos to see what other gear they have, and what their workspace is like.
    Jon
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Me too, and Willie's basement never fails to please... forums

    Then again, that's the very reason I don't post many home pics... too much... stuff. forums forums forums forums forums

  3. #13
    Senior Hostboard Member amandarae's Avatar
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    Originally posted by drummerwill:
    Dimension are 19"X24"X44" WxLxH
    604 center @ 36" from bottom
    Slot 11"x2" @ 4" from bottom
    3/4" Baltic Birch
    Front Baffle 3/4" + 1/4" Baltic Birch
    Polywool on floor and Back panel.

    I'm still just listening!
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thank you!


    regards,

    Abe

  4. #14
    Senior Hostboard Member drummerwill's Avatar
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    Abe
    I'm so sorry for a mistake inthe dimension.
    CORRECTION: 604 center is 32" from the bottom.

    Thought I'd better check again, good thing I did.

    Have fun
    Willie

  5. #15
    Senior Hostboard Member drummerwill's Avatar
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    Hey bfish

    With regard to the Stonehedge V my first MDF cabinet were about that same size 19"X20"X44".
    I never was happy with the Bass, just diddn't go deep enough for me.
    So I made new MDF sides, top and bottom. the 19"X24"X44" seem to be more to my liking.

    Have fun!
    Willie

  6. #16
    Senior Hostboard Member GM's Avatar
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    Originally posted by drummerwill:

    Polywool on floor and Back panel.
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">In most vented alignments, especially high aspect ratio square or rectangular ones (MLTL), the top, back and one side should be lined. Lining the floor near the port defeats some of the vent action and lowers the tuning (Fb), so normally is only added as a fine tuning tweak if required.

    GM

  7. #17
    Inactive Member chrismercurio's Avatar
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    To avoid starting a new thread....

    Does anyone here have any experience running the 604 in a 614A cabinet? I haven't had a lot of luck looking on the web for people using this cab. For those interested it is ~3 cubic feet and slot ported, and modeling indicates fairly flat response into the high 50's.

    Nice cabinets BTW.

    Thank you in advance,

    Chris

  8. #18
    Inactive Member dr.joe's Avatar
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    I've just got a pair of Stonehenge V clone/Iconic 704-8A/GPA N604-8A set up, but no damping so far.

    What material is recommended?

    I've heard/read so many suggestions my head is spinning: fibreglass (but not the ordinary insulation kind), dacron, Deflex panels (very expensive), long-fibre sheep's wool, felt, asphalt-impregnated felt, open-cell acoustic foam, etc.

    I'd appreciate suggestions from experienced users....

    (Apologies for inadvertently posting this query to another thread.)

    Thanks,

    Joel.

  9. #19
    HB Forum Owner Todd W. White's Avatar
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    Believe it or not, you can use standard batts of construction fiberglas, as long as you remove the paper backing first.

    I have done this with great success for years, as have many others.

    The way I do it is to make three pieces that will fit inside on three non-parallel sides. As someone has said, be sure one of those pieces is not perpendicular to the vent, if the vent is near the bottom or the top.

    Then, using heavy-duty spray glue, I coat one side where a piece of the fiberglas is going, then I roll up the piece longwise, stick it through the speaker hole, then carefully unroll it and press it in place. I further secure it by using several 2" x 2" squares of cardboard with a long drywall screw in the center, placing them in several spots to prevent the pieces from falling if the glue lets go. The screw doesn't need to go in too deep.

    Repeat this process for the remaining panels of fiberglas.

    Hope this helps!

    Oh, and wear a long-sleeved shirt and gloves.

  10. #20
    Inactive Member dr.joe's Avatar
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    Todd, GM,

    Many thanks for your prompt and informative comments. One comparative question, if I may:

    My local pro audio speaker building shop uses 1.5 in. thick "convoluted open air cell acoustic foam," which they get from Solen, a major speaker/crossover parts supplier in Montreal:

    https://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_cata...2=2&niveau3=50

    Is there any reason to prefer acoustic fibreglass to this foam or vice versa? I'm less concerned about cost or ease of installation than with effectiveness.

    Or is it just a case "six of one and half-a-dozen of the other"?

    Thanks again, gentlemen. You've been a huge help!

    Joel.

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